Sushi_Yall

A Southern Sushi Project

I have committed to a big goal: 800 kids, 35 sushi workshops, 15 Southern towns, 1 heck of a sushi trail left behind. Project Sushi, Y’all will use sushi as medium to promote sustainability, culinary diversity and creativity among kids in the South.

To reach this goal, I am using the micro-funding website kickstarter. Anyone with an Amazon account can make a $5 or more pledge. Funding is all or nothing, so I must reach or exceed my goal by the end of pledge drive.

Check out Sushi, Y’all: A Southern Sushi Project

And check back here for project updates!

Opening up about sushi’s dreaded “f” word

I like to watch Kitchen Nightmares with Chef  “Potty Mouth” Gordon Ramsay.  Just about all of the episodes start the same. He orders some of the failing restaurant’s seafood. He asks the server if the seafood is fresh. The server says yes. Gordon  finds out it has been frozen and all experience the wrath of Ramsay. This is great entertainment and you have to respect the man – he knows what he’s doing. But the other day, while watching the episode on Sushi-Ko, I knew instantly that there was going to be a problem when he ordered the salmon sashimi.

Most sushi chefs don’t like to talk about that dreaded “f” word. And frankly, most sushi bar patrons don’t want to know the truth.  It’s not a popular topic. I’ve discussed it publicly before and have been attacked on web forums. However, I value the safety of sushi bar patrons beyond my web reputation. When it comes to salmon, we all need to get real. If you’re going to eat raw salmon that is properly and safely prepared it should be frozen first.  Yes, frozen.

The reason is quite obvious.  Parasites tend to run rampant in salmon. There are two good ways to rid salmon of parasites: by heat (cooking) or by extreme cold (freezing). So by default, the more suitable method for sashimi would be to freeze the salmon first.

To be cont’d….
Until Part Two, what are your thoughts?

* Pictured above Wild Salmon Tartare with Granny Smith Apple and Daikon Slaw and Beet Sorbet

Determined to be the first sushi chef in space, this video shows astronaut Soichi Noguchi making and eating a handroll (temaki) in space!

Sushi in Space

In the greater Memphis area, I’ve been told that The Fresh Market has good sushi. (This is usually followed by an apology to me as if eating supermarket sushi is a crime.) The evidence of this is overwhelming. Each time I venture in, I am amazed at the number of people hovering around that case displaying refrigerated gourmet pizzas and sushi. It disappears as quickly as it is made.

On one particular outing, I happened to be standing in the check out line during the lunch hour. I watched as nearly everyone in line around me had a box or two of sushi. And more than one person had already begun to eat their share while they waited in line.

I glanced down at my sushi-free buggy. Hmm, must be good, I thought. After all, it couldn’t be that bad if it was being made fresh, right?

I’ve pondered buying a box just to give it a try on several occasions. In fact, every time I shop, I meander over to the bottled salad dressings (which is located conveniently next to the sushi case) and pretend to look for dressings. I love watching as people mull over their options: cucumber rolls, spicy tuna topped with avocado, eel rolls, crunchy shrimp, California rolls, and some sort of concoction that looks like it exploded. With the exception of the mystery explosion roll, everything looks appetizing. And though I doubt most of the patrons need it, there is a handy chart that tells how many days each selection will last in the refrigerator.  I can respect that.

But would I try it? Well, we’ll see….I’m not a sushi nob, but I usually just make my own when I have a craving.

What are your thoughts? Is supermarket sushi a do or a don’t?

Want a break from the typical green tea ice cream served for after sushi dessert? Try these refreshing strawberries. Matcha, green tea powder, is mixed with white chocolate for a unique treat. After the berries are dipped, a sprinkling of crystallized ginger or toasted almonds add to the presentation. This application also works well with small, whole pears.

Green Tea & White Chocolate Strawberries
Yields 1 dozen large berries

12 large, blemish free strawberries
1/2 cup white chocolate, or white candy coating, roughly chopped
1/2 tsp (or more to taste) Matcha, green tea powder
1 TBSP finely chopped crystallized ginger, or toasted almonds

waxed paper

For best results, wash strawberries only moments before dipping. Dry strawberries completely with paper towels. (Water will cause melted white chocolate to seize.)

To melt white chocolate, place in a microwave safe bowl. Microwave on HIGH in 30 second intervals, stirring until white chocolate just begins to melt. Whisk in green tea powder.

Dip strawberries in green tea and white chocolate mixture, allowing excess to drip back into bowl. Place strawberry on waxed paper and sprinkle immediately with crystallized ginger or nuts. Continue until all strawberries are complete.

Allow chocolate to harden at room temperature, about 10 – 15 minutes. To speed up the process, place berries in refrigerator for 5 minutes. Remove promptly to prevent condensation.

Store finished strawberries at room temperature for up to 4 hours. Delicious with gingerbread cupcakes (without the green tea glaze) or chocolate ice cream.

It seems these days that everyone is looking for an excuse to drink more red wine. The old adage of “white wine with fish, red wine with red meat” is losing ground as a hard rule as red wine lovers experiment with fish pairings. Additionally, red wine has been the subject of a number of recently published medical studies suggesting that compounds found in the drink may promote cardiovascular health and aid in prevention of certain types of cancers.

And now, some sushi fans are thinking outside of the (sake) box. Though sake, beer, green tea and sparkling white wines have long been the accepted sushi pairings, red wine is gaining momentum as sushi chefs and sommeliers experiment. Trend-setting restaurants such as Sushi-Ko and Nobu promote wine lists that include reds meant to be paired with sushi.

Sound like bizarre combination? Perhaps it’s not too far off the mark. After all, pinot noir and salmon are no strangers. Grilled salmon is often promoted as a good pairing for pinot noir. Thus the idea of fresh or even smoked salmon sushi with pinot noir is not so foreign. With this in mind, it is possible to see why one would be curious about other such sushi matches. It is often noted that hamachi and unagi lend themselves to red wine, particularly pinot noir.

Personally, I think the idea has great merit. I love a great red. I love sushi. When sushi is eaten properly – not drowned in soy sauce or overwhelmed with wasabi – the combination can be quite nice. Smoked duck and walu sushi were two of my favorite red wine and sushi pairings.

Have you ever tried red wine with sushi?

Potstickers, also called gyoza, are dumplings that get their name from the appearance of their crisp, browned underside.

Potstickers often contain pork, shrimp or a combination of both. If you have shellfish allergies or do not include pork or shellfish in your diet, ground chicken is a great way to enjoy potstickers. Ground chicken, rather than ground beef or ground turkey, mimics the consistency produced by the more traditional pork or shrimp fillings.

The filling for this recipe is fully flavored. Rather than using a flavored dipping sauce, I recommend using just a bit of full sodium soy sauce if needed.

No Pork, No Shellfish Potstickers (Gyoza)

Makes about 30 Potstickers

1/2 pound ground chicken

3/4 cup finely chopped cabbage

2 tablespoon green onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely minced garlic

1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger

2 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sambal chili paste

pinch of salt

about 2 tablespoon corn starch to make a slurry (optional)

vegetable oil for frying

30 gyoza wrappers, or as needed

In a medium bowl, combine the ground chicken, cabbage, green onion, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sambal chili paste and salt. Place covered in refrigerator until ready to assemble potstickers.

In a small bowl add enough water to cornstarch to make a thick paste.  Alternately, water alone can be used to seal the potstickers. Open gyoza wrappers and lay a damp kitchen towel across to keep wrappers from drying out.

Lay a few wrappers on a clean, dry surface. Wet all the edges with cornstarch slurry or water. Place a teaspoon of filling in the middle of the wrapper. Fold the sides up to form a semicircle, and then pinch the edges to seal. Resist the urge to overfill, as it will be difficult to keep the edges sealed. Continue with the rest of the wrappers until the filling is gone. Place potstickers between layers of waxed paper or on plastic chopping mats to prevent them from sticking together. Store covered in refrigerator until ready to cook. These can be prepped a day in advance.

To cook, heat about 1 tablespoon oil in a heavy frying pan over medium-high to high heat. Add 4-5 potstickers (do not overcrowd pan) and allow to brown, about 2 minutes. Carefully add about 1/2 cup of water to the pan. Cover the pan and cook until the water is absorbed (3 to 5 minutes). Repeat with the remaining potstickers.

Serve hot or room temperature.

* The dumplings may alternatively be fried on both sides for about 2-3 minutes or until filling is completely cooked. *

by Marisa Baggett

Many would be surprised to find that I count Michael Jackson as one of the most influential figures in my sushi career. I never had the pleasure of meeting the superstar nor have I ever found any accounts of him being a sushi lover. I can’t do the moonwalk and haven’t committed all the dance steps of Thriller to memory. Yet I can confidently say if it weren’t for him, I may not have ever ventured into a career of sushi. In the past when people would say to me that I couldn’t become a sushi because I was a black female, I super-imposed Michael Jackson doing the moonwalk over their image in my mind and find strength. Whenever I face a sushi challenge or feel like I can’t press out one more nigiri-zushi, I can use the same image or turn on his music and once again I am strong. In essence, I equate sushi with Michael Jackson and the connection came to me in a very unexpected way.

About ten years ago in the town of Starkville, Mississippi, I owned a small restaurant called The Chocolate Giraffe. The restaurant, which could best be described as an eclectic upscale sandwich shop and bakery, was the storefront for a catering company as well as a coffeehouse.  Back in those days I dreamt of becoming the town’s premiere baker of spunky wedding cakes as well as becoming the it caterer. It was through my catering business that I agreed to provide sushi for a dinner party despite having no knowledge of the cuisine. A few employees that had actually frequented sushi bars in other towns put it all together while I focused on the ambiance. The party was a huge success and The Giraffe as we were so known, began hosting weekly sushi nights.

I liked sushi enough. On the one hand, it added a distinct panache to the restaurant’s reputation. It was pretty and one could barely argue against the income it provided. We were the only sushi game in town, not a single one of us was Asian, and it felt great to do something we were told by another restaurant owner would never catch on. But for all of its glory, sushi didn’t touch a special place in my heart. In fact, it literally didn’t touch me and vice versa. I opted instead for a more hands off approach, directing my line cooks on presentation and creating the menus without ever once preparing any of it.

Sitting at the bar one sunny afternoon and recovering from a lunch service, I watched as my father parked his pick up truck in front of the restaurant. He entered very purposely, removed his signature cowboy hat and took a seat next to me. He offered no greeting but instead looked me directly in the eyes.

“Even Michael Jackson still has to dance,” he said.

It seemed a strange, irrelevent thing to say. I had expected to hear a report that I had perhaps overspent my labor budget for the prior week or something of the sort. Daddy, who doubled as a business partner, rarely visited mid afternoon unless there was some corrective action I needed to implement immediately. He must have known that I was confused because he repeated his profound statement.

“Even Michael Jackson still has to dance. You serve sushi but you don’t even make it. Even Michael Jackson still has to dance, “ he offered.

And before I could respond, he replaced his hat and left me sitting alone at the bar.  His words haunted me all afternoon. His words couldn’t have been any more timely as it was the eve of one of our most booked sushi nights. As usual, he was right. How could I continue to justify not taking a more active approach?

I retired from work early that evening and curled up at home with a thick stack of sushi books. As I flipped through page after page of beautifully photographed nigiri-zushi and maki, my father’s words rang over and over again in my head. I had to at least give sushi making a try or I would never hear the end of it. I resigned to make the most of it and spent hours reading about the cuisine and comparing various tips on its preparation. 

With more studying what once seemed so foreign and elusive became somewhat familiar. Though having no hands on experience, I had a hunch that I would know what to do when the time came. I closed my eyes and imagined myself to be a sushi “dancer” that allowed the preparation of sushi to flow through me like music does an amazing dancer.

The next day, I joined my staff in the kitchen. They raised eyebrows when I announced that I would be joining them in making sushi for the night. When the preparations were nearly complete, we all huddled around the pot of rice and watched as little tufts of steam emerged. This had always been their favorite part of the process. I had to admit that it was mesmerizing quite like a mysterious dance partner beckoning one onto the floor. It was at that very moment that I fell in love with sushi. Sushi beckoned me onto the “dance floor” and I accepted. It was then that I knew sushi and I would have a lifelong affair.

“I think we’re ready to open. What are we listening to tonight?” asked one of the kitchen guys.

I smiled and retrieved a cd from my purse, slipping it into the player without letting anyone see. I took a deep breath of the vinegar-perfumed air before pressing play and resuming my place behind the counter. Within seconds, the tell tale beat of Billie Jean filled the restaurant.  I hovered my hands over the sushi rice. I was ready…ready to dance.

“Do you sharpen your own knives?” people often ask.

Of course! Most chefs do. Knives are sort of a chefly pride. The contents of a chef’s knife case is one of the mechanisms we use to size each other up. A cool knife collection earns base points, knowing how to use them properly adds more, and having the sharpest ones in the kitchen definitely gives you the edge. We love our knives and we love flaunting our ability to sharpen them. Ever seen a chef whip out a big scary knife and run the blade briskly across a metal steel?

But did you know that using a honing steel doesn’t actually sharpen the knife? Instead it conditions the metal blade, giving the appearance of sharpness. This is a great way to keep knives going in between sharpening. To truly sharpen a knife, some of the knife’s metal must actually be removed.  This can be achieved with a ceramic whetstone or an oil stone.  If you own carbon steel knives, a ceramic whetstone must be used. Never use an oil stone to sharpen carbon steel knives.

For the home cook, investing in sharpening stones may be too costly as quality stones can run upwards of $50 each. If you don’t want to invest in a stone for your stainless steel knife, try one of these creative sharpening methods that I picked up from Chef Ben Smith of Tsunami restaurant in Memphis, TN. These methods should only be used on stainless steel knives and are not appropriate for carbon steel.

The Coffee Mug Method (Stainless Steel only!)

pictured above

Grab coffee mug and flip it over. If it has a rough circle (often white) that feels like unfinished ceramic, then you can use it for sharpening. To sharpen, place the blade of the knife flat against the mug (the unfinished circle) as close to the base of the knife as possible. Glide full extent of the blade across mug then flip the knife over and repeat on the other side. Do this a few times making sure that both sides were stroked the same number of times. Run knife under water and wipe clean to remove debris before use.

The Unfinished Ceramic Method (Stainless Steel only!)

Have a piece of pottery with a flat, unfinished bottom? It can also be used to sharpen a knife. Turn pottery piece over to the unfinished side. Place blade of knife flat against piece of pottery as close to base of knife as possible. Glide the full extent of knife blade across the unfinished ceramic.  Flip knife over and repeat on the other side. Do this a few times making sure that both sides were stroked the same number of times. Run knife under water and wipe clean to remove debris before use.

This polishing method, from Harris Salat of The Japanese Food report, works wonders on any sort of knife, including carbon steel sushi knives. Use this for fine-tuning for an already sharp knife. (Thanks so much, Harris for this tip!)

The Newspaper Method (All knife types)

Make sure you knife is dry. Place a sheet of dry newspaper (all black and white ink) flat. Lay the blade of your knife flat on the newsprint and gently glide the blade across the paper, keeping blade flat the entire time. Do this a few times and repeat the same number of times on the other side of the knife. If knife is one sided carbon steel, it is not necessary to repeat on both sides evenly. Run knife under water and wipe clean to remove debris before use.

The Golden Knife Rule : NEVER pick up a chef’s knife without permission!

Pickled vegetables such as eggplant, burdock root and daikon are quite commonly used as components for sushi rolls. In my first days of creating sushi in a small Mississippi town, recipes for pickled vegetable rolls popped up in nearly every sushi book I could find. But most of them I could neither pronounce nor find in my local, closet sized Asian market.  A few of the more traditional books featured recipes for pickled items; but daikon radish and small Japanese style eggplants were also unavailable. Like so many times before, I had to improvise.

The task was an easy one as Southerners have such a great tradition of preserving. Between peppers, green beans, chow chow and a host of other canned jewels the hardest part was narrowing down the selection. My favorite pickled vegetable, next to dill cucumbers, had always been okra. This didn’t seem like a stretch as many of the Japanese cookbooks I flipped through for inspiration contained okra recipes. Pickled okra sushi? Why not!

This recipe uses the technique for rolling thick sushi rolls. Review this method with detailed instructions and step by step photos here.

Pickled Okra Futomaki

Makes 1 futomaki roll, 5 pieces

1 4in x 7in piece nori

about 1/2 cup prepared sushi rice

2 blanched green beans

small pinch of matchstick cut carrots

1 large pickled okra, cut in half lengthwise

2 thin strips of red bell pepper

1 tsp finely chopped scallion

1/2 tsp toasted sesame seeds

wasabi, optional

pickled ginger, optional

soy sauce for dipping, optional

Place nori vertically, rough side facing upwards, on a bamboo rolling mat. Using wet hands, spread prepared sushi rice evenly on the bottom 2/3 of the nori.

Next, add roll ingredients according to the method for making thick sushi rolls. Place scallions and sesame seeds in a line across the center of the rice. Place okra halves end to end in the center of the rice. It’s okay if the ends extend past the roll as this makes a nice presentation. Top with green beans and red bell pepper strips, being sure that all ingredients extend the length of the sushi roll.

Roll according to the method for making thick sushi rolls. Allow roll to set seam side down on cutting surface for 2 minutes before cutting into 5 pieces.  Serve with pickled ginger, wasabi and soy sauce for dipping if desired.