The Changing Face of the American Sushi Chef

For the past few months, I have been training an apprentice. But he’s a little elusive and has managed to dodge nearly every photo I’ve tried to take of him in action. In this picture he couldn’t dodge because we were locked into our station and busy preparing sushi for a party of about 200 guests.

One may think that the first thing I might hand to a sushi chef in training would be a knife, as knife skills are probably a sushi chef’s most brag worthy trademark. But as with anyone I work with, learning sushi begins with study materials- a book and a binder of more than 28 pages of sushi related vocabulary. I insist that one knows the Japanese names and correct pronunciations of the most commonly used sushi toppings. I insist that one knows the history of sushi as well as understands the difference between what is traditional and what is American contemporary sushi. And finally, I insist that one knows proper sushi etiquette. How do I know if these things are understood? Through unexpected oral pop quizzes, because this is what it feels like sometimes when working behind a sushi bar and customers ask questions. I like for future sushi chefs to understand that it is our job to not only make sushi, but to interact with customers and help them to better understand sushi.

But this education serves a different purpose with Kevin and me, as we are both African American. Though the demand for sushi is beginning to greatly change the face of the American sushi chef, having women or African American sushi chefs is still relatively new for American sushi diners. Many customers are content to let the sushi speak for itself. But for those used to having sushi prepared by a Japanese man, there tend to be tests-oral pop quizzes of sorts that present things that any properly trained sushi chef always knows. And in the past for others I’ve worked with that were not African American, this education was also extremely important, as many people would automatically assume that the male presence behind the counter was the sushi authority. And when questions get directed to a certain sushi chef, I feel that that sushi chef should have an answer.

Question: Do you or have you ever tested a sushi chef’s knowledge, questioned their training, or tried to assess their skill level before ordering sushi?